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Discovered by the Portuguese, sparsely populated rural Flores Island is 75 per cent Christian. It is the gateway to visiting Komodo Island and the Komodo National Park. Spectacular coral gardens under coastal waters make it excellent for snorkeling and diving. Three volcanic lakes, each with a distinctive color caused by dissolved minerals, are found high in the mountainous interior at the summit of Mount Kelimutu. Locals make prized hand-woven textiles using natural dyes and hand-spun cotton. Resulting blankets, scarves, and tablecloths make good souvenirs, but formal clothing for locals is also made from the fabric.
Once a small fishing village, this town is the capital of the regency MangarraI Barat--the western most part of Flores. Originally filled with fisherman homes, this area now houses tourists. Among the options is a floating hotel, and construction is rampant. A rustic local market is well worth a visit. This tiny town is the launching point for trips to Komodo Island.
Labuan Bajo on Flores Island in Indonesia
town market in Labuan Bajo on Flores Island in Indonesia
rooster at town market in Labuan Bajo on Flores Island in Indonesia
red peppers at town market in Labuan Bajo on Flores Island in Indonesia
Existing under the sea long ago, this scenic cave area features dry coral and fossils. The limestone cave itself is pitch dark, so visitors must carry flashlights, and it also has low openings. Closed-toe shoes are advised.
As my group approached this up-island village, we were welcomed first by smiling children running beside our van. Then, while we gathered with the village men, we heard the women singing and playing instrument as we were led us up the hill to a ceremonial hut.
There we were served homemade arak liquor. (Legal arak is made from coconut palms and is considered inferior to the homemade version made from ental or jaka palms or sometimes cashew fruit.)
serving arak liquor at Melo Village on Flores Island in Indonesia
First we observed the traditional Caci whip-fighting dance.
While watching, we sipped the coffee that the village produces.
coffee service at Melo Village on Flores Island in Indonesia
After the women performed the stick dance,
we were invited to join in. Arak is said to loosen you up for dancing, and indeed it did. Even though there had been a decent rain fall and the dirt had turned to mud, we all participated and had an enjoyable frolick. Later, as we departed, the children ran after our van to bid us adieu.
children at Melo Village on Flores Island in Indonesia
Best known for its world-famous amusement park—the original Disneyland in Anaheim is filled with family activities and familiar fast-food restaurants. Knott’s Berry Farm is next door in Buena Park, and downtown Los Angeles is just 28 miles away. Beach towns are close by, with plenty of spots where kids can play tag with gentle waves, and opportunities to commune with nature are also plentiful--whether in tide pools or on a boat journey out to sea. More . . .
Perfect for families, comfortable Cathay Palisades has plenty of big booths and friendly, speedy service. It has a typical Chinese menu with a vegetarian-vegan section, and upon request will replace meats with tofu in many dishes. Everyone gets a complimentary kimchee appetizer. Our vegetarian favorites include: hot and sour soup, chow mein, spicy broccoli, and crispy tofu. It is a popular choice for take-out, too.
interior at Cathay Palisades in Pacific Palisades, California
kimchee at Cathay Palisades in Pacific Palisades, California
hot & sour soup at Cathay Palisades in Pacific Palisades, California
chow mein at Cathay Palisades in Pacific Palisades, California
green beans at Cathay Palisades in Pacific Palisades, California
crispy tofu at Cathay Palisades in Pacific Palisades, California
The Komodo dragon—actually a giant monitor lizard--is the world’s largest and most lethal lizard. An endangered species, it lives only on small volcanic Komodo Island and a few neighboring Indonesian islands (a visit here is often tied in with a visit to Rinca Island). The lizards can grow up to 12 feet long and have inch-long serrated teeth that drip hemorrhagic venom. They have been known to attack humans, although they prefer to eat birds and small mammals like monkeys that will not attack them but will also go after not-so-small wild pigs, eagles, deer, horses, and even water buffalo. They are cannibals and will eat another dragon, and there is documentation that they have killed and eaten humans. Mating occurs in July, when each female lays 15 to 30 eggs, which incubate until March or April (8 to 9 months). They do not live in family groups, and the 4-inch-long newborns live in trees for about two years.
On my visit, we did the 1-hour, 1-mile medium trek to the waterhole and Sulphurea Hill (named after the cockatoo bird). Rules dictated that we stay together, keep silent, and don’t touch anything. No smoking is permitted. Out of the estimated almost 6,000 dragons that live here today, we saw four. We were told that on a good day in winter (I was here in October) you might see 14. And though they can move like the wind, on the hot day we visited the dragon's we saw didn't move, which is probably a very good thing. One appreciated perk of the visit is that the ranger will take a picture of each visitor with a dragon if timing permits. Locals sell lovely local pearls and hand-carved dragons as souvenirs. Wish I’d bought something.
pier at Komodo Island in Indonesia
entrance to Komodo Island in Indonesia
ranger guide and komodo dragon at Komodo Island in Indonesia
komodo dragon at Komodo Island in Indonesia
picture-taking with komodo dragon at Komodo Island in Indonesia
picture-taking with komodo dragon at Komodo Island in Indonesia
picture-taking with komodo dragon at Komodo Island in Indonesia
souvenir vendor at Komodo Island in Indonesia
Most tour boat excursions to Komodo Island will also stop at one or two of the area’s gorgeous beaches for snorkeling and a picnic. My group stopped at:
on Padar Island for snorkeling and a delicious buffet picnic lunch. A natural phenomenon, the pink sand on this beach gets its color from red coral fragments.
approaching Pink Beach near Komodo Island in Indonesia
view from Pink Beach near Komodo Island in Indonesia
picnic spread at Pink Beach near Komodo Island in Indonesia
picnic spread at Pink Beach near Komodo Island in Indonesia
and also on:
Angel Beach
on Pulau Bidadari Island, which in addition to being the perfect spot for snorkeling, diving, and sitting in the clear, turquoise water, offers a private Honeymoon Beach.
Angel Beach near Komodo Island in Indonesia
view from Angel Beach near Komodo Island in Indonesia
picnic tray at Angel Beach near Komodo Island in Indonesia
Jl. Pantai Waecicu Labuan Bajo – NTT, 081 238 710 815. 40 rooms. Pool. Breakfast.
The best rooms at Sylvia Resort Komodo are along the bay-front strip, where it is very quiet save for the sounds of happy frolickers and the odd clicking noise of geckos. Plenty of substantial wood lounge chairs are scattered on the sandy beach, where water laps at the wide, clean, sandy shore. But my favorite thing was lounging in the infinity pool’s lukewarm water and gazing out to Cecu Bay. However, no matter where you are in the world, no matter what the bliss, there is always the interruption of reality--in this case it is someone clearing orange canava trumpet flowers and debris from the sand, turning on porch lights for the night, and with the flick of a switch illuminating trees with lights, when all I really want is to hear is the tweeting of birds and the lapping of water hitting shore while twilight slowly deepens.
Note that this is an inexpensive backpacker’s hotel, and so the bathroom is tiny, water is precious (they truck in barrels of it, so it sometimes runs low and the shower is limp—the amazing thing is that it runs at all), and you walk up and down stairs to get to the entrance lobby (there is no elevator). Off the restaurant in the open-air entry building is a lounge area with two pool tables. The spare, simple rooms are of decent size and feature white marble floors, allowing you to quickly spot any wayward bugs. White cotton sheets and duvet provide comfortable sleeping, and the AC works well. Wi-Fi is free but spotty. They speak little English at the front desk but always have a smile and can help you arrange for tours.
view from lobby of Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
pool at Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
guest room at Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
bathroom at Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
sign in bathroom at Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
raking up canava flowers at Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
dusk at Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
gift shop at Sylvia Resort Komodo on Flores Island in Indonesia
Pantai Pede, Labuan Bajo 86554, Pede Beach, East Nusa Tenggara, Flores Island, 5+62 385 2443700. 88 rooms. Pool, exercise area, massage room. Complimentary breakfast; 2 restaurants, 1 cafe, 1 bar, room service. Parking; free airport transfer every 30 minutes.
Located near the airport and only a 5 minute walk from town, this contemporary hotel overlooks Peda Beach on Laprima Bay, which flows into the Flores Sea leading to Komodo Island. My room had an expansive water view and small balcony that allowed me to enjoy the beautiful sunset and the early light at sunrise.
sunrise as seen from the Laprima Hotel on Flores Island, Indonesia
It is contemporary style, with an open-air lobby and white-tiled wide halls. Rooms are large, with an open closet and bed covered in a white duvet.
guest room bed at the Laprima Hotel on Flores Island, Indonesia
The lovely infinity pool is accented with plenty of substantial wood lounge chairs, a tad of grass, and a very small strip of sand that is littered with debris—a common problem in these parts.
infinity pool at the Laprima Hotel on Flores Island, Indonesia
The bathroom features a Toto toilet and sink, black marble counter with raised white ceramic bowl sink, and sometimes hot water (another common problem in these parts). I liked the amenity raffia slippers enough to keep them and use them for the rest of my trip. In the breakfast room, I met some locals who were dressed in suits made from the island’s prized hand-woven textiles that use only natural dyes and hand-spun cotton.
textile vendors at the Laprima Hotel on Flores Island, Indonesia
Indonesians in suits made from local textiles at the Laprima Hotel on Flores Island, Indonesia